The Last Cusco Weekend

This was my last weekend, so of course I was determined to make the most of it. That also meant using up the last of my tourist ticket and seeing the places that were left on it. My first stop on Sat. morning was to a small art museum that houses one of the most extensive collections of naive art that I have ever seen. The collection included handicrafts and folk art from Cusco and surrounding area. In the afternoon I took a City Tour of four ruins around the outskirts of Cusco: Sacsayhuaman, Tambo Machay, Puca Pucara, and Q'enqo. The Q'enqo ruins derive their name from the maze of channels carved in the temple's stone, and it was fascinating to walk through one of the channels. The Tamba Machay ruins feature the Inca baths and a series of connecting channels that lead to three waterfalls. Puca Pucara offers fantastic views of Cusco Valley, and the ruins at Sacsayhuaman are extensive. It was once the site of a fort built high in the Andes to protect Cusco, but after an earthquake devastated the city, it was necessary to rebuild much of Cusco, so many of the giant stones (some weighing as much as 300 tons) were transported to Cusco. It was also the site of a major battle and after the bodies of soldiers had piled up they were eaten by birds of prey. The name Sacsayhuaman in Quechua means "satisfied eagle". Since I had not seen the inside of any churches except the main cathedral, Sunday was my day for a church tour (no guide). The first church that I was able to enter (many are locked between services), was the small church of San Blas. He became a saint after saving a child's life by removing a fish bone from his throat. He was subsequently imprisoned for something, but as he was able to walk on water, he cajoled three of his jailers to do the same and of course they drowned and he escaped. He continued to be threatened and abused and eventually he was put to death. Aside from these fantastic stories, the church has beautiful frescoes and an astounding pulpit that is famous all over Peru. No pictures are allowed. The carving is extensive and intricate, the pulpit is massive, and it took 20 years to complete. The next two churches that I visited were open for services and I was able to listen to a boys' choir, smell incense, listen to a sermon in Spanish, and particate in prayer. There are no service bulletins, and no prayer books. Everyone knows the service by heart. The last stop on my "to do" list was a small theatre to see some regional dances. The costumes were beautiful and varied, the dancing was interesting but not demanding, and the music was loud and boring. Following that I went out for supper and tried my first famous Pisco Sour and was greatly disappointed. Give me a martini anytime! The main course was delicious, however, with an alpaca steak and quinoa risotto with four cheeses. And that brings you up to date. Three more days of school and counting. I miss my family, friends, city and country! Chau.